Within & Without - Our Search for the Kanchendzonga

We never know why we do certain things at certain times. We might think these are some random chances at play. But when you look back they always seem to connect. Don't they? If you haven't felt yet, then you should probably be giving some more time to it. 

I thought I would recap my trip to Sikkim. A trip which was gigantic by any proportions or by any scale of mine. The people whom I went with, the experiences experienced, the beauty fathomed, the journey itself are stories to tell for generations to come. 

Now I understand why people say 'Traveling- it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller'. 

The map is huge. Be it the world or India. We are mere tiny particles in it. Yet sometimes we think the other way around. Travelling puts you in perspective. I, for one, became comfy with Uttarakhand. If given a chance I would tour that place every year till my being. The place resonates with cultural, religious, spiritual, adventurous aroma. You can choose your fragrance. Once that place was washed out by floods, I was washed out too. Should I wait and tour later? Or risk it and head to Uttarakhand anyway? Or should I choose another place? 

Within a few moments it dawned upon me that waiting and touring later was never my idea. Once you are bitten by the travel bug it doesn't leave you. Heading to Uttarakhand wont serve a purpose as my idea about the place would be twisted. So, the last option seemed to be a viable one. 

I wanted to trek to some place. Some place where I knew nothing - the language, the people, the cuisine, the weather, the terrain, the whatever. And it had to be some place which was white. Beyond all this, you do not choose the place, the place chooses you. With all this in mind, still without any prejudices I let myself like a leaf floating on a stream, unaware of where I would be heading to. That is why the title of the post - Within & Without. 

It was precisely the time I was reading 'The Inheritance of Loss' by Kiran Desai. A poignant story set in Kalimpong, a small town in the Sikkim-West Bengal border. That was the time I got introduced to Mt Kanchendzonga, Teesta river, Chang (The local rice beer) et al. Like attracts the like. 

Chang - The local rice beer

The place that came up was Goechala in Sikkim. I found this place while casually browsing some forums. I chanced upon it and found an instant connect when I saw the place, the altitude, the terrain. It was a strenuous trek for 8 days which will scale to 16000 ft with passages through many tiny Himalayan villages, seated precariously over mountain tops, with Teesta river gushing along, the vegetation preparing itself to be blanketed by the snow. Himalayas is best visited during October. The time when the skies are pure blue, without any cloud patterns and the mountains in their transcendent glory. Quite a sight, it will be. 

So, 8 days trek spanning 100 kms with strenuous climb north wards. With travel included it will come to 10 days. How am I going to find it? I set out to know about the place. I browsed lots. I thought of joining a trekking company for Rs 12000. But later decided against it. Going alone is going to cost me a fortune which I didn't have yet. So, a few more heads will certainly help. I told my friends who had asked me to inform them before I set out for the next trip. And, 2 most unlikely candidates emerged. 2 people whom I didn't even imagine I would be going on a trip with. But if that's what the course nature is going to take me then, whom am I to run against it? This created an interesting topic for discussion among my friends who thought more about the people and their disconnectedness than the trip. It was fun. 

The more detailed map

A rather easier one

The trip also demanded that we be at our physical best. I also wanted to improve my Hindi articulation. And most importantly I had to ask for leave from my office. I wanted to ensure that there are no last minute hiccups. So I told my office that I would go on 10 day leave in October. After a lot of discussion, they agreed for 9 day leave. A huge sigh of relief. 

It was 2 months to the trip. And I woke up every day at 5.30 am, go for a walk and a jog, have some green tea and then learn hindi for an hour. 5.30 to 8 am became by regime time. I was happy and surprised at myself. That is when I understood why short term goals are important. And there should be a good incentive to drive towards the long term. Just long term alone wont help. (After the trip, I have fallen back to my old ways. That is another story altogether.)

We read about the place in lots and lots of forums, articles, newspaper bits etc. A week before the trip, we knew where we would break and dine. The basics were spot on. This being first time trek for all 3, we shopped more than necessary. When you plan for a trek, I would personally recommend Quechua bags and Forclan 500 shoes. They were our saviors. Not to forget the energy bars. 

So with our bags full, we headed to Kolkata by Air India. We had our train Darjeeling Mail at 10.30 pm at Sealdah station. Finding good food has come a hobby now and it was no different at Kolkata, a place which houses some fond memories. Outside Sealdah station is a market place which has plenty of small eat outs and sweet shops. I tried Roti with Egg mixed Dhall for Rs 30. Then headed to a sweet shop and tried some 6 different sweets and 1 'hot' rosogolla. Heaven!! That is when I understood how sweet shops elsewhere fool people by giving fake rosogollas! 

After a content dinner, we woke up at Siliguri at 9 am. From here, our 8 hr long journey to Yuksam, our base, will start. We split our journey to Jorethang and then took a taxi from there for Rs 2400. We reached Yuksam, a tiny Himalayan village at 4.30 pm. It was cold and getting dark. By 5.30 pm, it was pitch dark and was drizzling. I enjoyed every bit of it. We found a neat place for the night and spoke to guide in the morning regarding our plans. We were asked to shell out totally Rs 27600 for a 7 day trek and we were promised we wont be needed to spend a dime for the rest of the trek. How wrong we were!!  Cant expect anything less when you have 3 - half baked, under cooked, uncooked - Hindi speaking guys. 

A familiar sight

Our first day trek of 16 km was scheduled for 6 hrs. We completed in 9 hrs. We were clearly over packed. And it took a toll on us. Later that night we came to know that we could have possibly been fooled by the guide. We packed one bag with all 'non-essential' items and sent it back to base camp. What a start!!  

Sample this for everyday meal:
6.30 am Breakfast
10.30 am Lunch
2.30 pm Evening Snack
6.30 pm Dinner
7 pm Sleep

And, lunch would invariably be 'Boiled aloo, a fruit, 1 boiled egg and a pack of biscuits'. You can take turns between 'Soupy noodles' and 'Rice, dhall & aloo masala' for dinner and breakfast.

Harbhajan Singh, overdid

Just beside were a group of french people, who got to sat in chairs, had spoons and fork, and got hot pancakes. Such a luxury!! 

We kept going higher everyday from Yuksam 5700 ft (our base) to Tshoka (9650 ft) to Dzongri (13000 ft). 

The strenuous ascent to the heaven

It is lonely at the top

The HEMAN with his romantic look

The Bulkman with his standard posture

At Dzongri, We woke up at 5 am to see the mountains shimmer with golden light at 5.45 am. It was freezing and I was dressed minimally. That is the way I liked it though the guides advised me against it. 

At a height of 13500 ft at 5.30 am

Comparison between me & a foreigner

At that height, with the white mountains & a cool breeze for company, you will feel a sense of calm which is not there elsewhere. 

The Panorama

A walk in the valley

We started trekking to Kockchurang (12000 ft) the next day. Kockchurang was just the kind of place I had dreamed of. A mountain base, a small wooden house, a few streams, a few stones, clear blue skies, some white mountains, barely a few people tagging along. It had everything. I didn't need anything more. I was content. 

From one mountain to another. At the base was Kockchurang

Entry to Kockchurang

The gushing Teesta

Thats the view I was telling about

Poetry in motion

The next day we started to Thangsing (13500 ft). It turned out to be a valley. A place where streams become half frozen in the morning. The other 2 guys didn't want to trek any further. I wanted to. But we had no proper guides and the group I was supposed to join, fell sick. So, our last day of 12 hr trek got cancelled. I had mixed feelings. Another time, maybe. 

Half frozen streams at 6 am

We trekked down to Kockchurang to stay for the night. And I was content again. By 4.30 pm, a huge mist got settled in and the place got darker and more beautiful. One of the guys came and asked, 'How did you choose the place?. Just too beautiful'. I replied, 'When did I choose, the place chose me'. 

This mist at 4.30 pm

The Landmark picture

A few learnings from the trip:

• People have their own needs, interests, goals. It is not bigger or smaller than that of yours. Infact, no dream is smaller or bigger. It is all our opinions. Give it due respect and see the things that follow you. 
• Trekking is all about preparation and perseverance. It is more about your mental being than physical. A 55 yr old guy covered more distance and altitude than us. 
• Try the local cuisines. It will show you how the people are. 
• Adjust with people and go. You wont be all by yourselves everyday. A few experiments with yourself will certainly help. 
• Know the place. And don't get too happy or bogged down by it. Neither will help. 
• Nature has its own of telling things. Most places didn't have water for essential survival. Infact, a stream which was there when we started was not there when we returned. Nothing is permanent.
• Learn a new language. You will find interesting comparisons with your own. 'Baki' in Hindi is same as 'Baaki' in Tamil. 
• Find a purpose. Small term should lead to long term. So that you never get bored with life and you will always appreciate its niceties. 
• You can't do everything by yourself. If you do, you are not a leader. 
• People around you might goof it up for you. Pardon it and enjoy the ride. 

This is by far my most expensive trip. I didn't expect it myself. A few trips like these every 2 yrs is pivotal though. 

Waiting with bated breath on where to set out on the next leather tramp..